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1 Loop Pile Fabrics
Fabrics woven on the terry principle with the warp formed in uncut loops. -
2 Pile
The yarn which forms the face of fabrics such as velvets, velveteens, terry, etc. There are several varieties, viz., warp pile, weft pile, and knotted pile, and cut, loop or curl pile. Warp Pile is formed by an extra warp additional to and much longer than the ground warp. The pile threads are woven over wires which, when removed, leave loops either uncut or cut. This system is used for wool and silk velvets and many carpets, rugs, etc. Terry fabrics have looped pile formed by weaving without wires. Weft Pile is formed by weft floats which are cut after the cloth is woven to make the pile as seen in velveteens, corduroys, etc. Knotted Pile is made by hand by knotting short lengths of yarn to the warp threads. Design is formed by using pile threads of different colours. After the rug or carpet is woven the pile is trimmed to a uniform length. Curl Pile is produced by weaving two kinds of yarn in the same cloth, a non-shrinking yarn being floated loosely on the surface while a yarn that shrinks readily is interwoven closely. When the cloth is shrunk the unshrinking yarn forms curls on the surface, as in astrakhans. -
3 Moquettes
Loop pile fabrics produced by the aid of wires as for Brussels and other carpets. Originally made by hand with knotted tufts. The name is used for a lighter cloth used for upholstery in which the pile may be looped (uncut), all cut, or partly looped and partly cut. Produced in self-colours and multi-coloured. The pile yarn is usually wool and the ground warp cotton working two ends together. -
4 Curl Effects
These are imitation weft pile fabrics and are obtained by the use of a shrinking with a non-shrinking weft, such as woollen and mohair yarns. The picking may be one of each or two of each alternately. The wool weft weave plain and the mohair is floated as required. The cloth is milled and shrinks in width, but as the mohair does not shrink the floats are caused to loop on the surface. The warp is generally of cotton yarn. -
5 Townsend, Matthew
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Leicester (?), Englandd. after 1867 USA[br]English inventor of the latch needle for making seamless hose, and developer of ribbed knitting on circular machines.[br]Townsend, who described himself in his first patent as a framework knitter and afterwards as a hosier of Leicester, took out a patent in 1847 for the application of a "machine like that of a point net frame to an ordinary stocking-frame". He described needles and hooks of a peculiar shape which were able to take the work off the knitting machine, reverse the loops and return them again so that ribbed knitting could be made on circular machines. These became popular for knitting stockings which, although not fully fashioned, had sufficient strength to fit the leg. In 1854 he took out a patent for making round hose with heels and toes fashioned on other machines. In yet another patent, in 1856, he described a method of raising looped pile on knitted fabrics for making "terry" towelling fabrics. He could use different coloured yarns in the fabric that were controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. It was in the same year, 1856, in a further patent that he described his tumbler or latch needles as well as the making of figured patterns in knitting on both sides of the fabric with a Jacquard mechanism. The latch needles were self-acting, being made to move up and down or backwards and forwards by the action of cams set in the cylindrical body of the machine. Normally the needle worked in a vertical or inclined position with the previous loop on the shank below the latch. Weft yarn was placed in the hook of the needle. The needle was drawn down between fixed plates which formed a new loop with the weft. At the same time, the original loop already on the shank of the needle moved along the shank and closed the latch so that it could pass over the newly formed loop in the needle hook and fall over the end of the needle incorporating the new loop on its way to make the next row of stitches. The latch needle obviated the need for loop wheels and pressers and thus simplified the knitting mechanism. Townsend's invention was the forerunner of an entirely new generation of knitting machines, but it was many years before its full potential was realized, the bearded needle of William Lee being preferred because the hinge of the latch could not be made as fine as the bearded needle.Townsend was in the first rank of skilful manufacturers of fancy Leicester hosiery and had a good practical knowledge of the machinery used in his trade. Having patented his needles, he seems not to have succeeded in getting them into very profitable or extensive use, possibly because he fixed the royalty too high. His invention proved to be most useful and profitable in the hands of others, for it gave great impetus to the trade in seamless hose. For various reasons he discontinued his business in Leicester. He emigrated to the USA, where, after some initial setbacks, he began to reap the rewards of his skill.[br]Bibliography1847, British patent no. 11,899 (knitting machine). 1854, British patent no. 1,523 (seamless hose).1856, British patent no. 1,157 ("terry" towelling fabrics).1856, British patent no. 1,858 (latch needles and double-sided patterns on fabrics).Further ReadingF.A.Wells, 1935, The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry, London (mentions Townsend briefly).W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (a better account of Townsend).RLH -
6 Astrakhan
A soft, curly, strong wool, obtained from a sheep reared in Astrakhan, Persia, and other Asiatic districts. A cloth of silk and worsted, or all worsted, with a long loosely curled pile, and put on the market as an imitation of real astrakhan. Mohair yam is largely used. The worsted fabric is made in widths 56 to 70-in., 48 X 78 picks, two-fold botany warp, about 2 / 56's to 2 / 70's, and the weft four picks single botany and two picks three-fold mohair. The mohair weft yarn is curled before using, which, when cut (similar to velveteen) causes the free ends of the tufts to curl on the face of the cloth. This cut fabric is known as "Polarian". Sometimes the pile is left uncut. A good quality cloth is made 48-in. wide, 48-ends, 150 picks per inch, 2 / 30's cotton warp, one pick 24's cotton weft, and two picks 88's mohair. A knitted fabric is also on the market as an imitation astrakhan. This is the cheapest method, but does not give the same weight or wearing quality. Astrakhan fabrics are made in two ways: - (1) On the weft principle, in which by the shrinking of the ground texture the pile weft is thrown up as a loop; (2) as a warp texture, in which loops are formed by the warp yarn passing over wires.
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